Putting a finish on the parts
For the purposes of this tutorial I am only going to address spray on finishes. I have done Parkerizing and hot bluing but most people do not have the facilities to try these with any amount of success. The three spray on finishes I have used are:
Moly Resin from http://www.molyresin.com/
This is a Polish Tantal in Gray/Black Moly Resin.
Dura Coat from http://www.lauerweaponry.com/
This is a metric FAL in Dura Coat Flat Black.
and Dupli-color 500 or 1200 degree with ceramic from any auto parts store.
This is a Romanian AKM in Dupli-color 1200 Flat Black.
Each of these finishes has proven to be very durable. The rifles shown above have each had over 500 rounds fired and multiple cleanings without issues. Of the three only the Dura Coat requires a long curing time of up to three weeks. The Moly Resin and Dupli-color are oven cured and the rifle can be assembled and used at once.
Metal preparation
Full sandblasting of the parts is nice but is not necessary. I have found that the original parts from the kits have a rough enough surface that the finish will bond properly. The receiver will need to have the surface scored to achieve a long lasting bond. I have found that using a 3M green pad or fine grit sandpaper used in a circular motion works well for this.
It is also very important to totally de grease the parts for a good bond of the finish. I use an engine cleaner followed by brake cleaner. I then bake the parts at 250 degrees on news print followed by more engine cleaner.
Application
Both the Moly Resin and the Dura Coat need an airbrush to apply. The Dupli-color comes in a shaker can.
Moly Resin
You will need to heat the parts to 150 degrees before applying the spray. This can be done in you kitchen oven on a cookie sheet.
Dura Coat
Cold application.
Dupli-color
Cold application.
Curing
Moly Resin
Oven cured at 400 degrees for one hour. Must be wiped down with light weight oil once it has cooled.
Dupli-color
Oven cured at 400 degrees for one hour.
Dura Coat
Needs to set up for 72 hours before the parts can be assembled and up to three weeks to be fully resistant to solvents.
Tips on curing
I have made some hooks and stands for the parts out of wire coat hangers. These allow me to hang the barrel and receiver from the top rack in the oven and set up the rest of the parts on a cookie sheet on the lower rack. It is very important that the parts do not touch anything while they are in the oven or the finish will not bond.
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